Brake pad replacement

wakramer's picture

After only 32,000 miles, my brake pads needed replacement front and back. This is surprising since most of our driving is on the freeway. Has anyone else experienced short lived pads?

I bought a set of ceramic pads from Tire Rack and replaced them. The front sliding pin bolts that hold the caliper in place were so tight I had to use a pneumatic impact wrench to get them off. One of them took about 30 seconds with the impact wrench before it came off. What surprises me though is that the Nissan service manual calls for only 20 ft-lbs on these bolts when reinstalling them. That seems really low since these are 17mm bolts and they must have taken over 100 ft-lbs to remove. Could this be a typo in the service manual or could it be that the heat generated by the brakes causes these bolts to tighten up over time to where they're difficult to get off?

markathome's picture

link

Try this link http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/quest/2004_Quest/ Just replace the year with yours.

MBarnes's picture

brake and rotor problems

Besides all the shaking from the brake and rotor problem my tires also wobble and 2 have been replaced and also now wobble. I noticed that the wheels are steel and almost solid, I am wondering 2 things.
1 are the wheels holding in to much heat and not letting the brakes and rotors cool enough, would spoke mags help?I have never seen tires wobble before. I noticed it when they were put on the balance machine.
2 are the wheels wobbling also, could they be warped. I am going to look into both of these.
Dang do I need high preformance rotors and brakes and to also replace the tires and rims?
2007 Quest SE 37000 miles. I got this at 19,000 miles and it already had new tires on the front and a minor shake however when I get into the mountains and the wheels heat up it REALLY shakes.

mattevandavis's picture

Nissan Brakes

The brakes they put on these vehicles are fine, but are not intended for every ones driving style. Highway speeds mean hard braking, and high temps that cause pad and rotor problems. Most aggressive divers, like myself, will see brake issues too. my wife drove her van for a long time with no brake issues. They all started after I drove it for about a week. If you have issues it probablly means you are harder on your breaks than you think you are.

Try upgrading to better pads, possibly better rotors. Hawk makes HPS pads for our cars that can take the heat, and offer fantastic wear properties. My van stops like a Porsche now.

dtownfb's picture

Re: Nissan brakes

The problem with the early model Quest is the brakes were undersized. No matter your driving style, you are going to see warped rotors. My wife is the primary driver of our Quest. She is hardly an aggressive driver but most of her driving is city driving. She does a lot braking. The Quest is a heavy vehicle.

I belong to 2 other Quest forums and owners have tried upgrading the brakes but still have problems with the rotors warping. use the brake components that your mechanic is comfortable. They are probably good quality and he/she is likely to warranty a product they use exclusively.

2004 Quest S

mmahamm's picture

Maybe also try driving less

Maybe also try driving less aggressively. "Aggressive" driving is usually not as safe as other driving "styles."

Michael
Northern Virginia

2008 Nissan Quest S

Matt05Quest's picture

Brake replacement

I too have done a few brake jobs on my Quest w/ 60k miles. I'm thinking Nissan is getting famous for bad brakes. My cousin has an '06 Titan and has had nothing but problems. Seems like they put Sentra brakes on it!

'05 Quest S 60k
Long time Nissan Z fan

'05 Quest S 60k
Long time Nissan Z fan

Rob's picture

Aftermarket Rotors and Pads

Hi have an 05 SE, and the brakes have been an issue since I bought the van. At 4000kms the rotors were turned, at 9000kms the rotors were replaced ( and I assumed the pads as well )...and now at 22000km the shimmy in the wheel is driving me crazy.

I searched the net and came across aftermarket parts from R1Concepts. ( http://www.r1concepts.com/index.html )
They offer two sets of rotors - premium or e-line. I opted for the e-line package that were drilled, slotted, and zinc coated. For $270 I had all four rotors and pads included. The pads were from Centric, and were semi-metallic ( part of the package deal ). I changed my mind on the pads, so I decided to buy Ceramix pads from the local Napa dealer. These are said to last longer, and be more friendly to the rotor.

I installed them this weekend by myself, and what an improvement. The braking distance improved, the feel of the pedal was more assuring, and the shimmy was gone. Even the slight vehicle vibration I felt at higher speeds was gone. They felt better than what Nissan could offer.

Time will tell how these parts will perform.

Just some observations I found when changing the rotors and pads. Nissan dealership was not adhering to the torque specs for the bolts...some were loose, some were too tight. One of the caliper bolts was damaged - luckily I was able to pivot the caliper off. The pads were over greased...too much anti-squeak that found its way to the friction parts...perhaps why the van did not perform quick stops in short distances. The front pads only had 1 return spring attached in the top position - making me wonder where is the bottom spring, and how uneven the wear would be on the pads. I am taking my observations to the dealer at my next service...not expecting anything in return ( as has been my experience with them and Nissan Canada ).

buster's picture

I know this is an old post,

Rob, I know this is an old post, but how did those rotors work out for you? I need to replace mine and am looking very hard at the ones you used.

dustyniche's picture

Just did my brakes last weekend

Hi;
Just some general and specific information on a brake job we did on my '04 Quest last weekend.
I had a lot of shudder from the right front when breaking from above 45 MPH. I thought the rotors were warped. I found out later that the right side tires had been curbed quite a lot, the right front was out of balance and the rotor was only .002" out of spec.
I had already purchased the front end parts so we installed all of them. The front end got:
--- Akebono Ceramic brake pads
--- EBC Sport Slotted and Dimpled Brake Disc Set
The rear end got:
--- Ceramic brake pads
I'm still looking for two tires for the front as both of them were down to the wear indicators.

The one thing that sort of surprised all of us was that we all thought that the rear set of pads would be OK since they don't do much of the work. Wrong! The rear pads were in worse shape than the front pads. So when you are thinking of doing your front pads, might as well get a set of rear pads just in case you yours are worn out also. (Besides, you'll need them eventually!)

Good Luck!
Dusty

wakramer's picture

rear pads

That was my experience too. The rear pads were shot at 30,000 miles and the fronts weren't quite as worn. The consensus seems to be that the rear pads are under-sized.

CreakyQuest's picture

Brake pad & rotor replacement

My SE is an '06 with 30k miles. I am unfortunate enough to have had front rotors that warped pretty badly to the point where the steering wheel shimmy was not just a distraction but also a safety hazard. With that in mind, I just replaced my front rotors and brakes with those found at http://www.frozenrotors.com. Big difference. In addition, I merely had the rotors in the back turned and the pads replaced with OEM pads. But as per the dealership, both sets needed to be changed, so I had them do the rears and I did the front rotors and pads myself.

NYQuest's picture

How did you get the Caliber

How did you get the Caliber brackets off? Did you use an impact wrench?

I tried to change my rotors this weekend. I could not get the bracket bolts to loosen up. Well I got one bolt off on the left side but could not the other off.

CreakyQuest's picture

Caliper Removal

Surprisingly it was my right side which I tried first which gave me hell. Took about a good 20 minutes to try and get the bolt to loosen up. Tried spraying it with wd40 and kept at it. Just when I was about to give up, I tried it one last time and gave it a good heave and it finally came loose.

And no, I didn't use an impact wrench. All by hand.

NYQuest's picture

I quess I have try again

I quess I have try again this weekend. Maybe the bolt spray that I put on it had some time to loosing things up.

Thank you.

NYQuest's picture

I got it this weekend.After

I got it this weekend.
After I got home from soccer. Did not bother jacking it, just turned the wheel all the way to the left, got out a longer wrench and bang!. One side loose. Turn the wheels all the way to the right, Bang bang. Cool! They are loose. Jack the van up, finished in about an hour.

They feel really good, better than when I first got hte van. Make me wonder if they were always a little warped.

slalomskie's picture

Ny Quest?

NY
Is this the rotors or the pads?

NYQuest's picture

Rotors

Rotors

Cleankill's picture

how's the new frozen rotor

how's the frozen rotor now? Any sign shimmy yet(hope not)? I am planning to get a set too. I can warp a set of rotors in under 1k miles and i warped a few sets...lol with anger... Mine is a base model and i dont have alloys. I thought SE and SL was better because the heat could escape better when equipped with alloy?

CreakyQuest's picture

RE: Frozen Rotors

So far so good. No shimmy or vibration. No drama in my braking any longer. Exactly what I expected. Although the rim selection I'm sure might play a part in heat dissapation, imho I think the OEM discs were just plain crap.

In addition to Frozen Rotors, I found that over at http://www.stillen.com -- Stillen Performance, they have a set of cross-drilled rotors available for our Quest.

I'll eventually replace out my rear rotors, but for now I think they'll be ok.

Any of you guys know of any hi-performance parts for our Quest btw? Like perhaps a strut tower brace, etc?

TIA

CQ

Nhan070's picture

RE: Brake pad & rotor replacement

Same thing on this end. At 43K a few months ago, my '04 SE had to have both rotors & brake pads replaced. I should have had it changed earlier since the symptons of the vibrating steering wheel when braking occurred much earlier. My local (non-Nissan) mechanic went with the non-OEM parts (don't remember the brand though) and I'm hoping they last a heck of a lot longer than Nissan's OEM stuff.

wakramer's picture

RE: Brake pad & rotor replacement

I had a lot of trouble with rotors too. Mine were turned 3 or 4 times under warranty before they finally replaced them. The new ones are already warped. The original ones were warped on the drive home from the dealership. I'll have to try some aftermarket rotors next time, the OEM's just don't hold up.

bikeman's picture

2004 Quest Brakes

We didn't get much more than 32000 miles on our brakes either. Rotors were in good shape and didn't have any problem getting things loose. Had to replace both front and rear. Went with Ceramic.

slalomskie's picture

Pads

Where did you get your pads? From Nissan or Parts store?

wakramer's picture

pads

I bought mine from Tirerack.com. I believe they were on closeout at the time. They're ceramic but to be honest, they still produce a lot of dust.

SaltyB's picture

37K on the van and the rear

37K on the van and the rear brakes worn down to the shoe. replaced the pads and rotors. I've never heard of a car/truck/van having to replace REAR brake pads under 50K... It's probably due to the size of the pads in the rear are smaller than my mountain bikes brakes... I suspect I'll be in using the old Fred Flintstone method if this keeps up...
Question, did you try any penitrating oil before trying the impact wrench? PB blaster may have helped. I'm going to inspect the front pads this weekend. We'll see if I can save my feet from braking...

wakramer's picture

caliper bolts

I'll have to try the penetrating oil next time. I don't get what makes them so tight since they only call for 20 ft/lbs of torque. The rear bolts called for 32 ft/lbs which is strange since they were smaller. There must be something about the heat the fronts are subjected to that makes them tighten up.

I was surprised to see that the fronts had twin piston calipers. The brakes would actually be pretty impressive on these vans if it weren't for the warpage and pad wear issues.

Carzzz's picture

torque

Where you get the info about the amount of torque applied on the front and rear caliper bolts?

VQ35DE

wakramer's picture

caliper torque specs

That's what was listed in the factory service manual. I downloaded the service manual from Nissan.

TNSteve's picture

caliper torque specs

Sorry if this seems obvious, but what website allows the service manual to be downloaded? Can you share a link?

Thanks in advance!

2007 SE

2007 SE

wakramer's picture

service manual

I bought a 1 day subscription on the Nissan site http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/deptsubs.aspx.

Once you subscribe and view the manuals, the pdf's for the manuals you viewed will remain in your temporary internet files.

NYQuest's picture

34,000 Miles

I just replaced my front and rear pads two weeks ago. I used Nissan replacement pads. All the shims fit and there is no noise.

The back were a breeze to change, but the fronts had the same problem that yours had. The front bolt on each caliber was frozen. It took a lot of body to get them to break free. I ended up with a nice bruise on my forarm. I was pulling so hard that when it broke free, I jammed my arm on the Wheelwell. Looked like I got hit with a baseball.

JayTheSnork's picture

front brakes on the new Quest (2007 S model)

I couldn't get where I wanted to be to loosen the front caliper bolts, so I bought a new impact wrench. I had one, but it was crap, so the new one is aces.

The only problem I am having right now is the rotor is frozen to the hub, and I've whacked it several times with a hammer to try to free it up to no avail.

any suggestions, anyone?

2007 Quest S
2002 Quest SE

NYQuest's picture

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