1999 Nissan Quest chugs and dies when hot
Up until last week, my Quest did great. It started hesitating, chugging and losing acceleration. After that, it dies. It doesn't start, again, until it cools down.
My husband replaced the fuel pump and thought that was the problem. It did it, again, today. It didn't take as long to start this time, however. Before, it was taking about an hour or longer. It started up in 15 minutes while ago.
Any thoughts?
1999 nissan quest wont start
i was told that the knock senser was bad (BEFOR IT WOULD RUN THEN SHUT OFF and if lucky start up with starting fluid)and changed it know it wont start and ideas on what it might be and how do you reset the computer
thanks
It WAS distributor.
It turned out to be the distributor, or more precisely the cam sensor.
I got an ebay one for $109 shipped. Works fine. Was a little nervous getting one thats $200 less than others listed, but its working for now.
Down side was I had to pay the mechanic $270 for the diagnosis time/install.
I have a timing light & could have done it myself, but was unsure how to figure out which part was at fault.
But now 3 weeks later I have a "Service Engine Soon" light. I guess thats the same as a CEL. Going to Autozone to get code read. If its possibly related to distributor install, I'll take it back to that mechanic.
CEL codes are 0120(TPS) &
CEL codes are 0120(TPS) & 0325(Knock sensor). I think I skimmed over something in the online manual about those coming up togther, but haven been able to find it again. So emission check was due & I was able to discon the battery for a day & clear the codes, drive it for 130 miles, and was able to pass. But now after another 110 miles, the CEL is back on. I am getting a hesitation when getting back on the gas in a turn, at the moment the light kicks on. I may go ahead & order those 2 sensor and see how it goes from there. $45 & $65 respectively.
But now I want to clear those codes to monitor repeat occurances. Where is the Villager ECU? Is it the same as the Quest? How do you get to it? Under hood? Behind glovebox? In front of passenger airbag? Damn manual doesn't say anywhere that I can find. Any help on this? Please.
I have a 99 Villager w/ the
I have a 99 Villager w/ the same issue. I changed plugs & wire b4 taking it to the mechanic. He has so far changed dist cap & crank sensor to no avail. He's considered distributor & resticted cat. But how would it run SO WELL when cold. There's not that much expansion in the cat, is there? The distributor sounds most likely as my crossover seems excessively hot as it is dying. Guess that sensor in dist is screwing w/ timing & makes it hot. That would explain why it sounds as if timing has jumped as its dying. OR the ECU is root of whole thing, as I'm NOT GETTING ANY CODES, and I haven't removed ecu to inspect for rust/corrosion yet. But I can't imagine it could be so sensitive to the rapid temp change under the hood. Fault should be much closer to heat source, thats why dist seem more likely. ANY Help? I'll update when I know more.
Chugs and dies when hot
My problem turned out to be the upper ball bearing in the dist. The shaft didn't seem to have any slop but you could see bearing chunks floating around inside. It seemed like a simple fix so I went for it. The bearing was about $5.00 from McGuire Bearing. The install was a piece of cake. I cleared the codes, fired it up, set the timing and now it runs like a champ.
jh
jh
Chugs and dies when hot
Hey J Howard,
Thanks for posting this. This is EXACTLY the same issue I had. I know this is more than 1 year ago when you posted this.
My drivability concern: The vehicle will stumble as if it was a misfire or a knock. And you can feel it. It was so harsh. The amazing thing was that there was NO CODES. So was hard to figure out. Anyway, I performed the whole gambit... Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter... And no dice. Today I saw this posting, and I took apart the distributer, and found the metal shaving mess. 4 balls out of the bearing was missing.
Anyway, my question is, how did you remove the bearing race from the distributer? Did you put the distributer in the freezer and let the metal bearing slip out? Or did you heat the aluminum and let the metal slip out?
Do you remember the part number of the bearing you ordered from McGuire bearing?
Please let me know,
THanks
George J -maluman@gmail.com
I have the same problem and
I have the same problem and i'm getting engine codes for the knock sensor and the cam position sensor, which is the distributer. are there more coments on this problem?
jh
jh
replace the coolant temp
replace the coolant temp sensor..
1996 200sx se-r
2002 quest gle
quest
I had the same problem, changed everything. I just sent back a knock sensor, thats a $ 700.00 job. A NISSAN TECH. in another forum, said to change the DISTRIBUTOR. REPLACE WITH A NEW ONE. THIS CHANGED MY LIFE. MY QUEST RUNS NEW. Bought the dist. on e-bay for $ 148.00 & free shipping. There is a photo cell in the dist. that either gets dirty or goes bad.Thats why he wants new. I had glowing cats. and everything else. My 2000 sat for six months, while I replaced everything. It use to run good for about a mile. Now its great. GOOD LUCK ROGER S
Chugs and dies when hot
I have the same problem with my 2000. Unfortunatly I have not found the answer; but I can tell you what I have done that has not fixed the problem. If you find a solution; please let me know - Thanks.
Replaced all plugs, wires, distributor cap, catalytic converter. Still happens. Considering ordering a used ECU unit just for the heck of it. That unit controls gas and firing among other things.
mark - MLB759@YAHOO.COM
SAME PROBLEM
Had the same problem with my '99, only it hadn't got to the stalling part yet. Just very poor idling and missing even at speed. Changed spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, timing belt, whole distributor. Still ran like crap. Finally tracked it down to a Mass Air Sensor filter that was so plugged it let very little of any thing through. No more cheap filters for me. Purrs like a kitten now.